# The Centquatre-Paris: Paris Free Things to Do in the 19th
The old municipal funeral hall, the free naves, and how to visit the arts center
Contents
By Finzi
The Centquatre-Paris, often written as Le 104, is a public arts center in a former municipal funeral building at 5 Rue Curial, in the 19th arrondissement. You can walk into the great naves without a ticket, watch rehearsals, and use the space as a meeting point. That makes it one of the more reliable paris free things to do on a day when you want to stay indoors without buying a museum pass.
This guide explains what is free, what is paid, how to get there, and how to pair a visit with the canal and Parc de la Villette. Programs change often, so check 104.fr before you go.
# What the building is
The city built this complex in the late 19th century as the municipal funeral service, with stables, workshops and two huge glass-and-iron naves. After the service moved out, the empty halls were converted into a cultural venue that opened in 2008. The industrial scale is the first impression: high roofs, brick, light, and a floor large enough for several events at once.
Artists have studios here. Performers rehearse in view of anyone who walks through. There are often markets, food stalls, exhibitions, and workshops. The mix can feel like a covered square more than like a silent museum.
Not every room is open to casual visitors. The naves and some public halls are the free part. Ticketed exhibitions, concerts and festivals are signed separately.
# Paris free things to do inside the 104
A typical free visit lasts 45 to 90 minutes, longer if you sit down to work or eat. You do not need a reservation to enter the public naves.
What you can usually do without a ticket:
- Walk the two naves and look at whatever is in rehearsal or on temporary display.
- Use the seating if you need a pause, a meeting point, or a place to plan the rest of the day.
- Browse a market when one is running. Dates are posted on the site.
- Look into artist spaces from public paths, without entering closed studios.
Paid events are clearly marked. A concert, a major exhibition, or a festival may need a ticket bought in advance. If you only want the free visit, go at an off-peak hour and ignore the box office unless a show is your reason for coming.
Children often like the scale of the halls. It is not a playground, and bikes or scooters may be restricted inside. Keep an eye on little ones near performances in progress.
# Tickets, hours and practical rules
The center publishes opening hours for the public spaces, which are not the same as show times. Midday and late afternoon are busy on weekends. Weekday mornings are calmer.
A few points to check on 104.fr:
- Closing days and holidays. Public holidays and summer weeks can change the schedule.
- Security. Expect a bag check at the entrance.
- Large luggage. This is a poor place to arrive with a suitcase. Leave bags at the hotel.
- Food. Cafés and stalls are often on site, but they can be busy or closed between services. Have a backup on Rue Curial or toward the canal.
If you are coming for a specific performance, the ticket time is the one that matters. Arrive early enough to find the right hall. The building is large, and signs are easy to miss on a first visit.
# Getting to the Centquatre-Paris
The entrance is at 5 Rue Curial, 75019 Paris, north of the canal and west of the Porte d’Aubervilliers area.
- Metro line 7: Riquet is a short walk and the most convenient stop for many visitors.
- Metro line 5: Laumière is useful if you are coming along the Bassin de la Villette.
- Metro line 7: Crimée is another nearby option.
- Tram T3b: Stops in this part of the 19th can cut a long metro trip if you are coming from the east or north.
- On foot: From the Bassin de la Villette, allow 10 to 15 minutes.
The neighborhood is ordinary and residential, not a tourist strip. That is part of the appeal, but it also means you should have the address on your map, not a vague plan to “find the 104.”
# Pairing the visit with the canal and La Villette
The 104 sits in a part of the 19th that rewards a simple loop. After the halls, you can walk toward the Bassin de la Villette for a canal-side drink, or continue to Parc de la Villette for a longer outdoor stretch. The park, the Philharmonie, and the Cité des Sciences are all in the same broad area, but they are not next door. Check walking times before you stack them.
A calm plan is:
- Late morning in the naves, while the light is good and school groups have not all arrived.
- Lunch on site or near the canal.
- An hour on the towpath or in the park, if the weather is decent.
On a rainy day, the 104 is the indoor anchor. A paid exhibition, when one is running, can occupy the rest of the afternoon. Otherwise, the Cité des Sciences is the larger indoor alternative, with its own ticket.
When you are building two days that mix free indoor stops and portraits, the paris free things to do guide on a two-day photoshoot plan shows how to leave space in the schedule for a session around the canal.
# Photos, behavior and access
This is a working arts center, not a monument stage. People rehearse, meet, and work here. Ask before you photograph a performer or a studio, and keep walkways clear.
Tripods and large lighting kits do not belong in the naves without permission. A small personal camera or a phone is usually fine in the public halls, unless a sign says otherwise.
For a planned portrait session, the streets and the canal are easier than the interior. Paris photographer session pages on photographers-paris.com show how this kind of neighborhood light looks in finished pictures.
The building aims to be accessible on the main public floors. If anyone in the group needs step-free access to a specific hall, write ahead or ask at the desk on arrival, because event spaces vary.
# When to go, and when to skip it
The 104 is at its best when you want a public indoor space that is not a shop or a station. Midweek, outside French school holidays, the naves feel open and easy. On a Saturday afternoon they can be loud, which is fine if you came for the atmosphere and less fine if you wanted a quiet hour.
Skip the trip if you only have 30 minutes on the other side of town. The metro ride from the historic center is not short, and a rushed pass through the halls is a poor use of the afternoon. Give it a real slot, or choose a free church or covered passage closer to where you already are.
Seasonal notes help too:
- Winter. This is a strong choice on a cold, wet day, because you can stay inside as long as the public hours allow.
- Summer. Combine the visit with the canal, and go early to avoid the heaviest weekend crowd.
- Festival weeks. The program can be excellent and also crowded. Read the week calendar and buy show tickets in advance if that is the point of your visit.
The neighborhood has limited tourist infrastructure. That is not a problem if you are comfortable with an ordinary Paris street. It is a problem if you expect a row of souvenir shops outside the door. A bakery or a supermarket on the way back to the metro is the more realistic stop.
# Practical tips
- Go with a loose plan. The pleasure of the 104 is what happens to be in the naves that day.
- Check the weekly program if you hope to see a rehearsal or a market.
- Do not treat it as a west-side add-on. From the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre, the metro trip is real. Give it its own half day in the north-east.
- Bring a layer. The naves can feel cool even in summer.
- Combine, but do not overpack. The 104 plus the canal is enough. The 104 plus every Villette museum is too much for one morning.
# Quick answers
Is the Centquatre free? The public naves are usually free to enter. Shows and some exhibitions are ticketed.
Where is it? 5 Rue Curial in the 19th, near Riquet metro.
How long should you stay? 45 to 90 minutes for a free visit, longer if you eat or attend a show.
Is it good in the rain? Yes. It is one of the best covered public spaces in this part of Paris.
Can you visit with children? Yes, if they can stay clear of rehearsals and respect the halls.
Do you need to book the free visit? No. Book only for ticketed events.
# Sources
- Centquatre-Paris, official site: hours, program, tickets and access, 104.fr
- Ville de Paris: notes on the cultural venue and the 19th arrondissement site, paris.fr
- RATP: metro lines 5 and 7, stations Riquet, Crimée and Laumière, ratp.fr
- photographers-paris.com: “Two Days in Paris With a Photoshoot” and the sessions page